Getting Your PET Blowing Lamps Right (Without the Headache)
If you’re running Krones or any of the big PET blowing lines, you know the struggle of finding replacement lamps that actually fit. We don’t believe in “generic” parts. Instead, we build our infrared lamps to slide right into your existing setup without you having to fight with the hardware.
The battle against scorched plastic
Here’s the deal with heat: you need the PET preform hot enough to blow, but not so hot that you burn the plastic. That’s a tight window. To hit that sweet spot, we use high-wattage densities—usually between 2000W and 3000W per lamp. We stick to high-voltage setups (230V or 400V) because it keeps the current draw low. Why does that matter? Because if you push too much current through thin wires, you’ll fry your contactors. Just a heads-up: these lamps put out a ton of heat. Make sure your oven’s cooling system is actually doing its job, or things will get too hot in there.
The nitty-gritty on materials
We use heavy-wall quartz glass. It’s tough. It doesn’t bow or warp when things get searingly hot. Inside, we use a halogen gas fill so the filament doesn’t just evaporate and die after a few weeks. As for the plugs, we use the standard R7s or Sk15 connectors. No weird adapters. No custom wiring. You just plug them in and get back to work. And if you’re dealing with specific wall thicknesses on your preforms, we’ve got coated versions that shift the IR spectrum to hit exactly where you need it.
Making the swap
The best part? You don’t have to mess with your reflectors or bend your brackets. We mirrored the OEM dimensions exactly, so these just drop into the slots you already have. You get a steady, even heat across the preform. It just works. One last thing:double-check your voltagebefore you flip the switch. If the lamp spec doesn’t match your power, you’ll pop the filament instantly. And that’s a waste of a good lamp.